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November 03, 2004

Crocodile Cafe Seattle

That night a few of us when to a bar and music venue called the Crocodile Café. It’s one of the places that I’d heard about before I went to Seattle and wanted to visit as they have some really great bands play there. Earlier in the week I’d seen an advertisement for a ‘Morrissey Tribute Night’ and it sounded great however I was planning to move on from Seattle by the time it was on, therefore I’d completely forgotten about it. We went to the bar and ordered drinks, me, Sally skydive and another girl, Dan the very quiet Israeli (?) slightly odd bloke, and a cute long haired Aussie guy. After an hour or so we decided to check out the music and lo and behold it was the ‘Morrissey Night’ I was gutted I hadn’t realised and we’d missed the first 4 bands. I was a little drunk and spent the next 10 minutes trying to figure out if any of the bands had played ‘This Charming Man’ my favourite Smiths song. In the process Sally and I got chatting to 2 guys who were brothers from Mexico, they had the accents but didn’t look Mexican at all. We watched the bands and it was a great night especially when a drunken Dan decided he wanted to get on stage and literally just walked through a door and 2 minutes later appeared on the stage!

Posted by Helen at 03:52 AM
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September 06, 2004

Vodka Jello and Gummi Body Parts!

Saturday 15 May 04

Today I went to a Street Festival in the ‘U’ district (the part of town where the University campus and housing is located). I took the bus up there with Megan (19 year old rock chick from the Mid-West, Megan is loud but very sweet and has an infectious sense of fun) and Daniel (26 year old guy I think from Colorado, he was one of the coolest people I met, I liked him for the same reasons I like Seattle, he was laid back but not lazy he always seemed to have something to say or do but never seemed to need to try too hard or worry about anything too much). We spent a few hours walking around the stalls looking at jewellery and arts and crafts. Daniel got distracted by a guy selling drums and ended up playing the drums with the guy for about an hour! I had my back checked out by a Chiropractor which was kind of odd, sitting in a chair in the street while some guy feels your spine and then tells you that the reason you get migraine could be caused by one of your vertebrae being out of alignment?? We ate noodles while watching bands and street performers. We saw a great Bluegrass band called ‘The Haggis Brothers’ and some pretty good indie rock bands. We also saw some street performers doing the thing that’s kind of like dance but also a bit like martial arts, or Tai Chi, I don’t know what it’s called but it was pretty cool to watch.

When Megan, Daniel and I got back to the Hostel we started to arrange a party for Megan’s birthday. Hillary a new girl in my room but who knew Megan and Daniel because she’d stayed at the Hostel a few weeks earlier, set about making Vodka Jello while the boys went to buy beer. Megan and I were tasked with going to the Sex Shop round the corner to buy ‘Gummi Body Parts’!! We thought it would be fun to ‘bob’ in the Vodka Jello for candy shaped like male and female anatomy. Well our task ended up being a mission because the place round the corner didn’t have them, they sent us a couple of blocks over to another place, but they were out too, by the time we got to the third place we couldn’t be bothered to look round the store and just walked up to the counter ‘Excuse me but do you have any gummi boobs?’. Fortunately they did have them otherwise it might have seemed a somewhat ridiculous question.

We had a great party, I admit I got pretty drunk which was possibly due to Hillary using a litre of Vodka for the Jello and Megan feeding everyone it from a huge serving spoon!

Posted by Helen at 10:41 AM
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July 30, 2004

French Toast & Karaoke?!!

Day 7 – Thursday

Today started out as a lazy day, I slept through breakfast (doh!) however that did mean I could indulge myself in one of my favourite American foods. French Toast. The desk guy at the Hostel (John aka the fountain of all knowledge) recommended ‘The Athenian’ in Pike Place Market. It reminded me of a pub with a cosy café atmosphere. I sat at the counter, and had luscious French toast, coffee, juice and a slice of melon. It was a great breakfast and I loved sitting at the counter chatting to the girl serving, people watching, writing my diary and having my coffee refilled for free, I love that.

Later that afternoon my friend Al came back from work and we decided as it was a nice evening we’d drive over to a place called Alki Beach over the bridge in West Seattle. We took a walk on the beach, collected ‘sea-glass’ (fragments of glass worn smooth by the sea) and enjoyed the views of the Seattle skyline over Puget Sound. We sat and watched the sun go down then went for a very nice meal in a Mediterranean restaurant, great Hummus and tasty Moroccan style Aubergine (Eggplant).

When Al and I got back to the Hostel, I got roped into a going Country Dancing with Kevin and Sally and 2 other chaps from the Hostel, Daniel and Karl. Al unfortunately declined as he had to get up early for work. Anyway the 5 of us pile into this taxi and tell the driver the name of the club we want to go to. Problem is he doesn’t know where it is and after much deliberation someone mentions that there’s a gay bar that has Country night. So we end up in ‘Cuffs’ but it’s not Country night, it’s Karaoke! We started out with Goldschlager shots and beer chasers, now a word of warning shots in the US are almost 3 times bigger than shots in the UK. Fortunately or unfortunately depending on how you look at it a number of the patrons chose to sing Country songs so we got our Country dancing in anyway as well as a bit of ‘return to my teens’ headbanging to Guns ‘n’ Roses!

Inhibitions were lost after the 3rd or 4th Goldschlager shots and things got very silly, Sally, Kevin & I decided to demonstrate the test of balance we’d done at the Science Museum the day before. This turned some heads, which is an impressive feat in a gay bar called Cuffs on Karaoke night! We had a fantastic night out, I can’t remember the last time I laughed so much, my face hurt the next day.

Posted by Helen at 10:04 AM
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July 27, 2004

Science, the Space Needle and Silliness

Day 6 Wednesday

Last night I made friends with another English girl, Sally. We were chatting with a guy, Kevin who was staying at the Hostel in between being out in the Ocean as an electrician on a fishing ship. Kevin knows Seattle fairly well and he told us that his favourite place to visit is the Pacific Science Museum. We agree that it’s sounds like fun, so next thing, Kevin’s on the phone to his boss and he says ‘I’m not coming in tomorrow because I’m taking 2 beautiful English girls to the Science Museum’.

Next morning the three of us jump in a cab and head off to the museum. Kevin is like a little kid when we arrive and this is infectious, we have a great time ‘playing’ with the exhibits. My favourite was the biology section where we tested our flexibility, our strength and in one particularly silly test our centre of balance. We also played with Robots and puzzle games, we learnt about tides (where Kevin thought it would be fun to splash water at Sally & I), space, animals and computers, we saw a 3D movie called ‘Bugs’ in the IMAX cinema and spent a few pleasant if warm minutes in the tropical Butterfly Garden. All together a really fun day out, I’d recommend it with a friend and with or without kids.

After all that excitement we’re starving so for lunch we go to the Space Needle Restaurant. I would argue that this is the best way to enjoy the Space Needle experience. Lunch is a $25 minimum spend per person but the food is excellent (I had coconut shrimp, a healthy portion of large luscious shrimp with great crispy fries and spicy coleslaw) and included is access to the viewing area which will cost you I think $10 anyway. Plus you get the added novelty of enjoying the 360° views as the restaurant slowly revolves.

Sally and I insist that we pay for lunch because Kevin had paid for everything else up to that point in the day, however it came time to get the bill and Kevin, the sneak, had already paid! So not only did we have a great day but it was all courtesy of a very generous and kind electrician we’d only know for a couple of days.

One of the things which has most endeared me to the travelling life is the people that you meet and the way you can develop friendships in a matter of hours it seems. The friendships don’t always last but they make life on the road so much more fun.

After lunch we relaxed by the fountain at the Seattle Centre, watching kids running in and out of the spray, then watching Kevin doing the same! As revenge for the earlier splashing incident Sally and I covertly purchased water pistols at a tacky tourist place. As Kevin returned from the fountain looking very pleased with him self as he’d managed to stay pretty dry we attacked!

Posted by Helen at 04:06 AM
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July 16, 2004

Culture and Cookery

Tuesday - Day 5
Today I was very lazy, I may have had a little too much microbrew and not enough Tacos during last night’s free hostel dinner. Anyway lunchtime rolled around and I was still hanging around the Hostel as was Naoko, another girl in my room. So we decided we’d do something together and we visited the Frye Art Gallery.

The Frye is a small free gallery which, when we went had 4 exhibitions. By far my favourite was an exhibition of poetry by local school children, the kids had visited the gallery then been tasked to write a poem about one of the pictures they’d seen. I spent about an hour reading these poems written by kids aged from about 6 up to 16. I laughed, I cried, I was touched and impressed by the things these kids had written and their interpretations of the paintings, totally enthralling and unique.

On the way back from the gallery Naoko and I were talking about cooking and Naoko said she couldn’t cook. She then proceeded to show me a picture on her camera, a picture of a SANDWICH! Naoko is 23 years old and a few weeks previously she had made her first sandwich and to celebrate took a picture of it! We were walking down one of the fairly steep hills in downtown Seattle at the time and we laughed so much I almost fell and went rolling down the street. It was really interesting to talk to someone who’s life experiences are so different to my own. Personally I learnt to cook as a child and at the age of 11 when my Mum went back to full time work I was responsible for cooking the evening meal for our family. Anyway as a result of our conversation I decided, that evening I would cook for Naoko and a few other friends at the Hostel. I actually love cooking for others and get great pleasure when people enjoy what I have made.

My speciality dish and on the menu that evening ……. Tomato and Rocket Risotto.

My risotto when down fantastically, I made a big batch and it fed about 7 people including me! In thanks I was given a beer by each person with a full belly, result!

One of those beers was provided by Alfred, who after that night became my closest friend in the Hostel. It was ‘Open Mike’ night at the Hostel that night and I think my friendship with Al was cemented when I watched him play his mandolin. He played a song by a band called Belle & Sebastian, a Scottish band with a reasonable following but not their not exactly mainstream, they also happen to be possibly my favourite band on the planet. Not only did Al play a song by Belle & Sebastian he played my all time favourite song by Belle & Sebastian! No mean feet considering there’s 5 albums and a number of EP’s worth of material to choose from. I was dumbstruck, here was this 22 year old guy from Connecticut playing a pretty obscure song, a song which I adore, I knew at that point that he and I would become friends.

Posted by Helen at 03:21 AM
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July 14, 2004

Pike Place - Fish & Giant Shoes?!

Day 4 - Monday

Today I thought I’d explore one of Seattle’s famous landmarks, Pike Place Market, home of fish throwing and the first Starbucks coffee shop. It’s also home to some interesting little shops and stalls.

I spent ages in a great book shop, the man behind the counter obviously loved books and he would spend time talking (not giving a sales pitch, just enjoying talking about books) to almost everyone who came in the store. I bought a battered but beautiful copy of ‘Catcher In The Rye’, a book I’ve been meaning to read for years but never got around to. I browsed in some unique and entertaining shops, I recommend the lower levels of the market and taking time to visit shops like:

* The shop that sells old Posters and Advertising, they have thousands of adverts taken from Magazines, I guess from around the 1920’s to 1950’s mostly, lovely to just browse for a while.
* The magic shop with one of those fortune telling machines (like the one is the film ‘Big’) out in front.
* The Comic store, I spent ages in here, comics, books, film and TV memorabilia, so good. I spent more money than I intended to here! I bought a set of 5 delightfully drawn books depicting the Japanese animation ‘Spirited Away’ or ‘Sen to Chihiro no kamikakushi’.
* The Giant Shoe Museum – just very, very odd!
* Browse the Farmers Market and you’ll be offered tasters of everything from juicy cherries and slices of pear to chilli jelly and not least demonstrations of ‘The Copper Massager’ !

The market has a pleasant atmosphere and despite throngs of tourists, no-one seemed too bothered by the leisurely pace which you’re forced to stick to. At home there always seems to be someone who’s in a hurry and is pushing past you in those situations. I have to admit that sometimes that person is me but on that day I didn’t mind doing ‘The Zombie’. ‘The Zombie’ is the name my friends and I give to the slow, shuffle way you walk when in a large crowd.

Posted by Helen at 10:14 AM
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July 07, 2004

Homeless In Seattle - People that made me smile

As with all cities as a vistor you will often encounter homeless people and sometimes they ask you for money, sometimes they make you sad and sometimes they make you smile. Here are some of the people who stuck out from my time in Seattle:

1. The Man with the Sign
At the far end of Pike Place Market I came across a middle aged black man with a large cardboard sign. I don’t remember what it said, something about why he needed money, but I do remember that he was shouting (in a nice way) at the people who passed him and who paid any attention to his sign. ‘Thank you for readin’ the sign, have a nice day’. While I was within ear shot he must have said this 2 dozen times. He must say it all day!

2. The Man who though I was German
Walking down the street with a friend from the Hostel in Seattle, we were asked to buy something by this chap, I’m not sure what it was, clearly something dodgy, watches or something. Anyway when my friend says ‘No Thanks’ the chap says ‘What about your German girlfriend? Does she want one?’ I do not possess any of the stereotypical German features, it’s true I’m blonde but fairly obviously bottle blonde. Hmmmmm.

3. The Girl doing the Experiment?
Everyday a friend of mine from the Hostel walks past this girl on 2nd Ave. She has a sign which says ‘Trying to Raise $3.99 for a Big Mac and a Coke’. She never says anything, she does not hold out her hand and she has no cup/hat/vessel in which to collect said $3.99. She is well presented and well dressed and has a nice handbag. My friend has a theory that she’s doing a sociological experiment and is not in need of $3.99 for a Big Mac and a Coke. It’s quite odd and I must admit I did not give her any money.

4. The Very Cheeky Chappy
Not actually a homeless person (I don’t think so anyway). But an encounter which made me laugh all the same. On a particularly hot day, I was walking downtown wearing a vest (not low cut) and skirt (not very short), a man walks by me, he’s smart, wearing a business suit, maybe late 30’s, anyway he mutters, almost under his breath, …….’Nice Tits’. Not to me, he wasn’t looking at me when he said it, it was as if he’d thought it and accidentally said it out loud. It was all I could do not to burst out laughing there and then!

Posted by Helen at 09:46 AM
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July 06, 2004

Relaxation for Body & Mind

Sunday Morning in Seattle and again it was a beautiful day. I decided to visit the Japanese Gardens in Washington Park, to have a relaxing day and enjoy the sun. I caught a bus to the Park and again the bus driver was more than helpful in advising me where to get off and how to find the Garden.

I spent the next 2 and a half hours in the Garden it’s so beautiful. I walked around the immaculately landscaped paths, over bridges and dry streams looking at Japanese Maples, Wisteria, Water Lilies, the most vibrant blue Irises I’ve ever seen. I took some photos, watched as kids fed the Koi Carp. I sat on a bench enjoying the sun on my back whilst writing my journal. It was the perfect Sunday.

That night in the Hostel, I spent time chatting with good people, drinking beer, giving Indian Head Massage, not necessarily in that order. I made some really great friends at the Hostel in Seattle and I enjoyed just hanging out there. I don’t know how other travellers feel but most of the people I met at the Hostels I stayed in, particularly the Green Tortoise Seattle were some of the most genuine people I’ve ever met and as a result some of the most interesting and enjoyable people to spend time with. I loved the fact that because so many travelling people have no agenda, and they don’t need to impress you, and they aren’t trying to sell you something, they can just be themselves. I found it easy to just be myself too. This was the most important lesson I’ve learnt in a long time. I’ve always tried to be myself but sometimes I felt like I had to try to be more like what people expect, or want from me, I always had the best intentions but I realised that it’s much easier to be myself and that that’s enough. This is something which I have carried with me since my travels and which I think will enhance my life in future. Travelling for me is about experiencing so many things from new places and people to new thoughts and ideas. Some of these things are fleeting and some will stay with me forever.

Posted by Helen at 04:46 AM
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June 30, 2004

Day2 - Sore Feet and Stupidity

Ping! I’m awake, it’s 6am. At home I would have looked at the clock, realised I can reasonably stay in bed another couple of hours and still not miss the day. I would have gone back to sleep, woken at midday, cursing the fact that I’d missed half the day. However I’m not at home I’m on HOLIDAY!!!! The anticipation of the first real day of my holiday is too much, so I carefully climb out of bed, trying not to wake the other girls in my room and head off to the showers. I was warned about hostel shower rooms and urged to take ‘shower shoes’ (flip-flops) however the showers at the Green Tortoise Seattle although not exactly sparkling were certainly not in a bad state of cleanliness or repair. I was pleased and soon to be refreshed and ready to start the day.

After my free breakfast of toast with PB&J, I love that stuff, (sometimes I think I was an American kid in a previous life). I head off to explore the city.

It’s 7.30am on a Saturday morning in Seattle, the sun is shinning (am I lucky or is all that talk of rain just to put the tourists off?) and there’s hardly anyone around. It’s great I feel like the city is calm and it wants me to relax. I walk from the Hostel down 2nd Avenue through Belltown. I find ‘Singles Going Steady’ a record shop that was recommended to me, get excited then realise it’s ten to eight in the morning, the place doesn’t open for like 3 hours or something!

I spent the next 4 hours walking around the city. I walked to the Seattle Centre, it was so quiet, a few people walking dogs or pushing babies around, there were a few homeless people still sleeping on benches but that’s just a part of life in any city. One fellow asked me for a cigarette, I gave him one, telling him it was a menthol, he pulled a bit of a face but took it anyway, he did not however thank me. I have to say that in general the homeless people in Seattle were never pushy and on a number of occasions actually made me smile, they are the ones I gave the quarters in my pocket to.

From the Seattle Centre I took the Monorail back downtown. Monorails have always been one of those things which disappoint me. I climb into the carriage and it feels like I’m at a theme park and then all it does is carry you across town. Meanwhile I’m sitting there expecting the ‘ride’ to suddenly lurch round a corner or hurtle downhill at tremendous speed. The Seattle monorail is very handy but it’s a short ride which doesn’t really show you much of the city and it’s not a white knuckle ride either!

From 5th where the Monorail deposited me back downtown I decided to walk up to Capitol Hill. I’d found a gig in the local listings paper ‘The Stranger’ which looked like it might be my cup of tea. A band called ‘Stars of Track and Field’. They’re named after a song by Belle & Sebastian, who are one of my favourite bands, and the review suggested some other influences which I like the sound of too. So I decided to try and find the venue in advance and make sure I’d be OK to get a ticket. In addition I wanted to find Volunteer Park, I knew it was in vaguely the same area and seeing as it was such a beautiful day I thought a bit of sunning ones-self and a bit of writing might be in order.

I must have walked 25 blocks, and I hadn’t found either the Park or the Venue (CHAC Capitol Hill Arts Centre). So I decided to stop for lunch, again 'The Stranger' was my guide and I had lunch in a Café they recommended ‘Café Septieme’ on Broadway. I had a delicious omelette with ‘home fries’ (my new favourite thing), lots of coffee, good people watching and the cutest waiter. I took advantage of this and asked him if he knew where the venue was, a good excuse to chat to him as well as gain useful information.

The venue for the gig I wanted to go to turned out to be just down the street and I was able to find out that I didn’t need a ticket and doors were at 8.30. I chatted for a while with the girl in the office and it wouldn’t be the first time that I was really touched by how friendly the people in Seattle are.

After goodness knows how many more blocks I finally found Volunteer Park. The park is lovely there’s the Asian Art Museum, which I would have liked to visit but I felt that it would have been a shame to be inside on such a lovely day. There is also a little conservatory with orchids and tropical plants. The orchids are lovely but so delicate that they are behind a wire mesh which kind of spoils the viewing pleasure a little. There are other crazy looking plants which aren’t behind bars and it’s a cute little place to spent 30 minutes or so.

The park also houses a water tower which I believe you can climb for a great view of the city. There is a reservoir type thingy which in it’s self isn’t very exciting but it clears the way for a pretty good view of the city even without climbing the tower.

I wandered round the park for a while and sat in the sun until it started to get cloudy and the wind picked up, that familiar ozone smell crept into my nose and I knew it was going to rain. I made my way to the bus stop to head back downtown and just made it to the shelter before the rains came. And came they did, the sky opened and the rain was bouncing off pavements and running down the road in streams within minutes. Being from the UK, I’m used to these type of sudden downpour, but back home I would have thought it a terrible nuisance. Instead I sat and watched as the things around me changed colour as the rain saturated them, smiled at unfortunate people who got caught without an umbrella, and didn’t mind getting wet when the bus came and I had to leave the shelter to get on.

So it’s Saturday night in Seattle, famous for a great music scene, home of grunge, final resting place of Jimi Hendrix, and I’m ready to experience it first hand. I catch a bus back up town (public transportation in Seattle is really good, I never waited more than 20 minutes for a bus, and most of the time it was less than 5, the bus drivers were helpful and the fares very reasonable). I get to the gig at 8.45 walk in and the place is virtually empty, at the bar I ask about the entrance fee and I’m told that they haven’t set up the door yet and not to worry about it. Result, free gig! However nothing is ever that easy, the girl behind the bar asks me for my ID, I’m 28 years old, I was 17 the last time I was asked for ID back home, I did not even think about needing it, even though I kind of knew that the law in the US is very strict and that they ID everyone, I did not bring my passport to the gig :-( I have to catch a bus back downtown, retrieve my passport, bus it back to the gig, by which time the doorman is on and I have to pay the cover charge!

I had fun at the gig although the bands weren’t particularly good. I was a little worried at first, I got back to the venue by 9.30 and it was still very quite. It turns out that bands can play a lot later in Seattle, back home in the UK most gigs tend to be over by 11.30 whereas here the final band didn’t even start until 12.40!.

I chatted to the girl behind the bar and to a few people including Mike, a short, rather unfortunate looking chap who told me he ‘managed’ one of the bands. He didn’t seem to be doing much managing, more getting drunk on Long Island Iced Tea and trying to chat me up!

I was rescued by the girl behind the bar, I think she was feeling bad about having to send me away earlier in the evening. She introduced me to her flatmate and his friends. They were really nice and I spent the rest of the evening chatting to them and avoiding Mike who by the end of the night was looking somewhat worse for wear.

Posted by Helen at 04:43 AM
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June 29, 2004

In the Beginning

Last month I took my first decent holiday in 10 years. It was my very first trip solo and my first time doing like a backpacker rather than a tourist with money to burn.

After much deliberation I chose the west coast of the good ol’ US of A as my destination. Why? A whole host of reasons. I wanted to ease myself into the idea of being a lone female traveller and although I don’t consider the USA to be the safest destination in the world, factors like knowing the language and knowing that my VISA would buy me pretty much anything I needed were encouraging. Another draw was when I discovered the Green Tortoise Bus Tours. I was enthralled by the idea of seeing some of the most amazing places in the world and in a way which sounded like lots of fun for not very much money.

I chose to take their 9 day trip called ‘Canyons of the West’ out of San Francisco. I was so excited. I was going to spend 9 days on this crazy hippy bus with 35 other like minded people seeing places like the Grand Canyon, Bryce and Zion Canyons and Monument Valley. The rest of my trip stemmed from there and begins North in Seattle.

Day 1
So my holiday started in Seattle, I arrived at 4pm local time, yet my brain said it’s midnight and you’ve been up since 7am Helen. The excitement and a little touch of anxiety too were pumping adrenalin through my veins though. I’d done my research, and finding the bus downtown was a doddle, thank you for good signage Seattle! As I board I ask the bus driver as nicely as possible if he would be kind enough to let me know when we arrived at 2nd and Pine, where I needed to get off. To my delight he says no problem, he’ll give me shout when we get there, he smiling and he’s really friendly, bus drivers in the UK are not known, in general for their helpfulness or geniality. Then he asks me if I’m Australian, I explain no, no I’m British. This will be the first of many times I’m asked this question during my trip, I was also asked if I was South African once, and a guy on the street thought I looked German?

So I find the Hostel (Green Tortoise, yes same company as the bus tour) and I check in. I’m told that that night there’s free dinner and free beer (while the keg lasts). Hurrah! Sounds like a good way to spend my first night.

In my room I meet Vanessa, a tiny French girl. She’s totally adorable and we chat for a while or at least she chats and I listen, I couldn’t get a word in edgeways. I agree to meet Vanessa and another girl in my room, Naoko, in the common room for dinner.

My goal at this point it’s 6pm, my brain says it’s 2am and you’ve been up for 19 hours, is to get a drink and have a cigarette. Success, offie (Off Licence) right downstairs, smoking room in hostel, filled with nice approachable people.

After dinner of baked potatoes, plenty of beer and good company I can no longer keep my eyes open (I tried to stay up till a reasonable hour in order to combat the jet-lag). I crawl off to bed at 10pm, my brain says it’s 6am and you’ve been up for 23 hours!

Posted by Helen at 06:19 AM
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