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WALKING ON EIRE

DISCOVERING IRELAND?S BEAUTY ON FOOT

By VENISE DOUGLAS

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March 16, 2007 -- I'M walking up the Hill of Tara, Ard Ri Eireann, the seat of the High Kings of Ireland in County Meath. The wind is up and the air is moist with the light mist the Irish call "rain." And of course, the mossy mounds where my ancestors lie buried are emerald green.

I've been walking all day and I'm exhausted but exhilarated, too. The ancient stones here tell stories, especially to solitary walkers who have time to listen.

I take a deep, deep breath once I get to the top. It feels as if all of Ireland is at my feet (feet are called "shank's mare" over here). Walking is an art form in Ireland and I'm just beginning to realize I want to see every water-colored masterpiece the island has to offer. Back down the hill, I stop at a traditional pub where thirsty walkers go for a Guinness or two.

There's a fiddler playing traditional music in the corner. A few other American-Irish pilgrims like me are chatting with the barman. Someone is speaking Irish at the table behind me - the lovely lilt of the language entrancing me. I order a light golden whiskey (no water, please) and take out my walking journal. Where else will the open road take me?

Walking tours are a fabulous way to see this country.

On guided walking tours, such as ones given by Country Walkers, you can expect to walk with groups that are limited to under 20 people. Country Walker's Irish trips, for instance, accommodate only up to 18 participants. There are two guides on each trip so that no matter what your pace, you're accompanied, while your luggage is transported to your next lodging by van.

On these trips, the terrain tends to be even, with mild elevations. "Our age range on the Ireland tours goes from 30s right up to 70 years of age," says Carolyn Walters Fox, Country Walker's Marketing Director. "A traveler who is used to walking about three miles a day at home should feel comfortable with the pace."

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