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Shiso

Bill Daley
July 11, 2007

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Shiso (pronounced SHEE-soh) is one of the most popular culinary herbs in Japan. Perhaps best known in the United States for its use as a sushi wrapper, the leaf has a number of uses in the kitchen. It comes in two varieties: green and reddish-purple. Shiso is also called by different names. It's ohba (pronounced OH-ba) at the sushi bar; it's also known as perilla, Japanese basil or Japanese beefsteak plant. A Vietnamese variety is called tia to (TEE-ah TOH).

Shiso has a lively spicy taste spiked with notes of cumin and cinnamon.

A member of the mint family, shiso is an annual easily grown in the U.S., according to Steve Brill, author of ""The Wild Vegetarian."" Andrea Nguyen, author of ""Into the Vietnamese Kitchen,"" suggests buying the whole plant, growing it and collecting the seeds for next year's crop.

Buying and storage tips

Fresh shiso leaves are in season in summer, but are sold year-round at Asian, health and specialty markets. Look for unblemished, fresh specimens. Vietnamese varieties tend to be dark purple on both sides of the leaf, according to Viet World Kitchen, a Web site (vietworldkitchen.com) operated by Nguyen.

Refrigerate like any fresh, green herb until ready to use.

Cooking tips

Shiso leaves are used to wrap sushi and as a garnish for sashimi. Leaves are deep-fried for tempura or snipped into salads. Leaves also can be pounded into pesto or made into tea. Red shiso leaves are often pickled and wrapped around umeboshi, pickled Japanese plums, to add flavor and color.

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wdaley@tribune.com

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